ERITREA: CAN YOU TRAVEL TO AFRICA’S HERMIT KINGDOM?
BY CONOR GAFFEY ON 7/15/17 AT 4:21 AM Newsweek Great Barrier Reef Left Off UNESCO ‘In Danger’ List Despite Concern Over Coral Bleaching And Water Quality WORLDERITREAUNESCOTOURISMAFRICA It’s Africa’s most secretive state and the source of tens of thousands of migrants
It’s Africa’s most secretive state and the source of tens of thousands of migrants who have fled towards Europe.
But Eritrea is also now home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site after the cultural organization added the capital Asmara to its list. Home to art deco buildings constructed by Italian colonialists in the 1930s, UNESCO described Asmara as an “exceptional example of early modernist urbanism at the beginning of the 20th century and its application in an African context.”
The declaration has led to a slew of positive media coverage for a country that has been ranked as the world’s worst place for press freedom in eight of the past nine years by Reporters Sans Frontieres. Commentators have dubbed Eritrea as “Africa’s North Korea,” and rights groups have accused the government of widespread repression and abuses.
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But given the new designation, there may be an increase in interest from potential tourists in the Horn of Africa state. So, what does it take to go to Eritrea?
Firstly, several Western governments warn against traveling to the country. The State Department “warns U.S. citizens of the risks of travel to Eritrea,” saying thatthe Asmara government restrict the travel of all foreign nationals within the country. The note is less strongly-worded than other travel warnings made by the U.S.—for neighboring Sudan, for example, the advisory simply “warns U.S. citizens not to travel to Sudan”—but points to the potential for obstacles to travel to, and within, Eritrea.
Obtaining a visa for travel from the U.S. to Eritrea is relatively straightforward: Asmara has an embassy in Washington; a tourist visa costs $50; and processing time is a minimum of 10 days. Dual U.S.-Eritrean nationals, or others holding an Eritrean ID card, are not required to obtain visas.
But according to an Amnesty International researcher who has traveled to Eritrea four times, foreigners are likely to face questioning when they arrive in the country. “You would need to explain yourself; the government is pretty skeptical of people coming,” says the researcher, who asks to remains anonymous for security reasons. “If you’re a foreigner and not Eritrean, they are going to ask you why you want to come, because they are skeptical of foreign influence in Eritrea.”
This skepticism is unsurprising given Eritrea’s history. The country, which lies just across the Red Sea from Saudi Arabia and Yemen, was colonized by Italy, then Britain, then Ethiopia, until gaining independence following a bloody 30-year warin 1991.
And since the early 2000s, Eritrea has gained a reputation as an international pariah. The country cracked down heavily on private media in 2001, leaving only state-run media houses in operation, to criticism from rights groups. In 2009, the U.N. Security Council imposed an arms embargo and travel ban on Eritrean leaders after finding that the state had supported the Islamist rebels Al-Shabab in Somalia, an accusation Eritrea denied. More recently, the U.S. banned dealings with the Eritrean navy, after a U.N. body said it had evidence of Eritrea trading in military equipment with North Korea, which Washington is trying to isolate in a bid to neutralize its nuclear threat.
Once in Eritrea, Asmara is an impressive destination, according to Ahmed Soliman, a researcher for Chatham House, an international affairs think tank in the U.K., who has been to the city twice for business. “It’s one of the most architecturally stunning cities that I’ve been to,” says Soliman, who last visited in 2016 for 10 days.
Soliman says that the main street in Asmara’s city center, Harnet Avenue, is lined with cafes, shops and restaurants that would be found in any Western capital. He particularly recommends the Spaghetti and Pizza House, a homage to the country’s Italian influence.
Besides Asmara, Eritrea has several other notable sites. The port city of Massawa was once called the “Pearl of the Red Sea” and hosts now-crumbling Ottoman, Egyptian and Italian architecture, while the nearby Dahlak Islands—a contested archipelago in the Red Sea—are home to a Qatari-funded luxury resort (as well as a secret prison, according to Human Rights Watch).
But according to the Amnesty International researcher, leaving Asmara is not a simple process for tourists. “There are travel restrictions but also checkpoints that increase in number when there are a lot of foreigners or diaspora in town,” the researcher says.
Historically, tourism has not been a big industry for Eritrea: Western states advise citizens not to travel to certain parts of the country—for example along the volatile Ethiopian border—and the presence of landmines have deterred many foreign visitors.
The designation of a world heritage site can result in an uptick in tourism, and the Amnesty researcher says the new label should prompt the government to restore the city’s architecture. Soliman, the Chatham House researcher, says he would like to return to Eritrea as a tourist to see more of the country. “Eritrea isn’t a dangerous place, you don’t see any danger, you don’t feel danger in Asmara when you are there, it’s very much the opposite,” he says. Having not traveled outside the capital, however, he admits that his experience is only of a “microcosm” of the country as a whole.
Asmara itself has welcomed the new designation. Eritrea’s permanent representative to UNESCO, Hanna Simon, described it as “a symbol of pride and achievement for the Eritrean people and shoulders the responsibility to maintain its status,” according to a statement from the Eritrean information ministry’s outlet Shabait.
The statement also noted that the new status “will potentially benefit Eritrea in the tourism sector.” Should that be the case, a little more light may be shed on Africa’s outcast state.
Sunzuro July 22, 2017
Did you write, “Eritrea is also now home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site ?”
The old beautiful Asmara had seen its golden era, in culture, music, tourism, a university college, sport including soccer, with the best three top teams in Africa under emperor Haile Sellasie. These days, it had seen its worst era as a hatching ground of the most number of refugees in Africa. It is the only capital city that does not have a running water, electric power, proper sewage system, poor infrastructure and not a single university to serve its its hard working but enslaved citizens.
k.tewolde July 23, 2017
Soliman says,’ …..Eritrea isn’t a dangerous place….’ for who? for you who is paid by the Ministry of Tourism,yes.For the diaspora regime loyalist who pays his/her 2% hard earned after tax money to sustain the oppressive state machine,absolutely yes,it is Hong Kong,Costa Rica,Punta Cana …….of Africa,but for the majority of Eritreans who live there it is a terrestrial inferno and for the purged diaspora ‘outcast’ like me a distant sweet memory. Sayonara, my beloved birthplace,my childhood playground,I don’t recognize you anymore.
Danilo July 23, 2017
ASMARA is no longer hospitable for residents nor visitors. Let apart free speech and move. No water nor electricity. Some are lucky if make shower by one can of water in one month. lucky enough to charge your phone in a week. above all, no money, food. If you it you need to wash your hands and teeth by liquor intentionally available to burn you .therefore, Asmara Eritrea in general is not fit nothing except the heritage of distraction.
Alamz July 23, 2017
It appears you (Sunzuro k.tewolde, and Danilo) are on misinformation crusade. Just wondering if you are one of those paid online worrier who posts with different name. You are under the clout of “dark world of online haters,” the good thing is NO one is taking you seriously.. Have a say — anything good on Eritrea?
Love
H. T July 23, 2017
Almaz, are you familiar with the life of Penguinesb
The Penguine is considered a bird but can not fly, if it stands on the beach the sea seal can eat it, if it gets down into the water the shark can eat it and if it is lost on the ice the bear can eat it…..this poor craeture only lacks Eritrean nationality under the rule of the mafia regime..
H. T July 23, 2017
Continuation
The similarty of life between Penguines and Eritreans is that if an Eritrean managed to come near the boarder he is under the merccy of shoot to kill policy of the mafia regime and he is lucky and crossed the boarder he becomes a victime of rashaida the intercontinental soldiers of PFDJ if he failed to pay the ransom he is sold for human spare parts. Finally the mediternaian sea also acts as an ally of the regime so death is everywhere for prnguines and Eritreans
Alamz July 27, 2017
Hi H.T. I did not get your point. ….. perhaps it is a bad analogy except in one area — like Eritreans, penguins are intelligent and independent (self-reliance!)
Love
k.tewolde July 24, 2017
If it was not for the goons who dragged the liberation war for another bloody decade and half and 26 years and counting of stagnation and stifling rule of the jungle,this tiny nation of the horn which sported cable cars,intricate railways,indigenous population moderately exposed to the western culture before their African counterparts,by now it should have bullet trains zipping coast to coast,fiber optic cable network connecting major towns,24 hr high speed internet,energy independent,solid infrastructure,sizzling ports like Norfolk Virginia and Port Everglades…..In a nutshell a booming economy with a skilled and educated new generation poised to take their entrusted estate to new heights instead leaving it in droves facing humiliation and death in search for asylum. Dear Almaz, this is not misinformation,this is affirmation,this is the fact that you and people like you refuse to see.And rest assured,I don’t get paid to post this opinion,I am just a concerned citizen trying to put sense and re-frame the minds such as yours to look beyond endless military parades,YPFDJ staged conferences and festivals,empty slogans and graduation ceremonies which starts with migration dreams.I am not a hater but I despise liars. Hope we will somehow find a common ground ,after all, we are the same blood.
amanuel July 24, 2017
K.tewelde
Our blood is d/t from araribs. Araribs blood is characterised by arrogace due to ignorance, lies due to inferiority complexes that again resulted from illiteracy, corruption again due to ignorance, etc. Am glad that am free from that arrarib blood of ignorance.
k.tewolde July 24, 2017
Brother amanuel, this lady pen name could be a niece,a sister,an old neighbor….that is why we are here tearing each other on the issue of the land we love passionately, it is the same blood that runs through our veins which boils when when seared the wrong way.I am Eritrean to the core regardless of my political station and nobody can deny me that.The blood which was separated by intentional centrifuge doesn’t mean it is different blood.I am hopeful the day will come when this blood will be agitated to one mix and flow in the same direction sweeping away those which kept it apart for a long time.
Eyob July 24, 2017
K. Tewelde afna mai meliekayo. Abey emo ms Isaias….
Danny July 24, 2017
K Tewelde,
Very well stated. Unfortunately, instead of critically analyzing the causes and effects of the subjugation by a brutal dictatorship, the Eritrean society has become tolerant to pain and sufferings to the point a percentage of it inexplicably draws gratification from such sufferings. Almaz is one example of those masochists.
andom July 24, 2017
Almaz
U are right eritrea is good without higdf leeches and ticks that include you.
Setit July 24, 2017
It is “Alamz” NOT ‘Almaz’. She couldn’t spell her name properly let alone analyze the situation in Eritrea! This is why Higdeff is having a LONG LIFE!!
Danilo July 24, 2017
Danny has stated that “the eritrean society is becoming tolerant of pain and suffering “. But the pain due to scratch, suffer too much, humiliation, be handicapped, death and disappear is only a covered fire that will neutralise
the dot of morphine in near future.